Acually that part was not as hard as I thought it would be. For most of my costumes I use a basic pattern of a blouse. Same in leblancs case. This is the one I use:
you can buy it for example here:
In general I made very good experiences with the patterns of burda. They are not too expensive, easy to use and they have a big variety.
So this was my base of black fabric:
Two parts for the front
and very important because of the red line on the back – I also cut the backpart in two. for a blouse normally you would have a onepiece at the back.
I lenghtened all the parts a bit according to my reference pictures.
Then I did the same with red fabric cause in some pics you see her coat lined with red fabric. I liked that a lot so I decided to line everything.. haaaard work. But here’s a tip: Since the entire coat is surronded by bias tape, you just have to do a FAKE LINING 😀
You just have to cut out the same pieces in red as you did in black and sew everything together. This is how it looked after sewing with sewing and adding biastpe.
The sleeves were not a big challenge, I just had to add the additional pice with the red buttons. Looking at the artworks will show you, that the pieces are a bit bigger there. I tried it.. and didn’t like it XD
So I made the whole thing a bit smaller and added only two buttons.
after the base of the coat was done, I added it to the corset. To get the right fit, I sewed it together on one side. On the other side I added some velcro to the coat and the corset.
Next step was the – how I called it – leg rag 😀 I put everything one and used a meaure tape to get more or less the right size. After I had cut that piece added red fabric on the back and sewed it together. the red line around the piece is just a looooooooong piece of the same red fabric. I added that one with a tight zig zag stich.
The flower I bought in one of these stores for decorations and added that one with hot glue (hot glue ftw!).
To keep everything in plave I sewed the back part on my coat. On the front edge I added this slim piece of fabric that you can see in the reference pics. To fix that on the panty I used velcro again.
And then there was the red pattern… oh my, that was pain in the a** 😀 I made a pattern of papar first. It took me about 3 trials go get a size and shape that I liked.. then I cut it out with a small scissor and pinned it on the fabric. I used chalk to mark the outlines and removed the paper. and then it was painting time… all I used was a small brush and a glass of fabric paint. I use a German brand called „Marabu“.
The rings on the top of the coat are made of wood. I bought them in an art supply shop and painted then with acrylic paint. They are sewed on with thread in a fitting red.
Make sure to stich your finger. No cosplay is perfect without some blood sacrificed by the cosplayer! lol
Was was a bit of problem first was keeping the two edges over my chest together. therefore I added a clear plastic thread (usually used for self-designed jewelery) and a snap on the other side. it worked so well!! I can only recommend that method 🙂
the biggest challenge was of yourse the collar… it was not the shape I was afraid about but finding a tecnique to give that huge monster a good stand. Between the black fabric in the back and the dark rd one in the front I added that lining I already wanted to use for the corset but was too hard in the end. For the collar it was PERFECT!
I already suggested that the lining wouldn’t be enough. So after I added the red bias tape around the collar I used a really thick metal thread that I slided into the opening of the bias take on both sides of the collar. I also added bias tape to the neckline of the collar and added also some thread there as you can see in the photo below. then I sewed the collar onto the coat. After a lot of bending the whole thing finally had the right shape!
And then it was painting time again! Since I couldn’t the the complete pattern on one of the artworks, I kind of designed the pattern myself. I took my chaulk and began to draw on the collar 😀 After an eternity I finally was satisfied with the overall result and started to paint – again with only some fabric paint and a brush 😀 Same goes for the other side of the collar.
Voila! the coat was made! In actually only one week where I had only the evenings left to sew. I was so done. But also very proud of the final result 🙂
Up next: props!